It would have been better if all of our efforts to intervene and pressure the Climate Summit this wednesday would have been moot. If the delegates were arriving at a powerful and binding agreement to avert global catastrophe. We could have re-purposed the march & direct actions into a victory parade, given flowers to the police along the way and blown kisses to the suits inside.
Unfortunately my pessimism is confirmed. There’s been plenty of obstructionism and stonewalling by the delegations inside, of course most of the blame squarely falling on the wealthiest block of nations, it’s our lifestyle that’s fucked up this planet and it’s our responsibility to bring it back from the brink of disaster.
But, unlike most the people I know, I’m not sympathetic to many of the developing nation’s demands either. Inside every hyper-populated developing nation is a (numerically large) class of rich assholes living large. Not to mention that it’s dubious to agree to carbon expansion so they can industrialize following the same erroneous path as the “developed” nations.
So, in the face of faltering summit, likely to have a spineless accord or none at all, and in the local context of total police oppression, my sound intervention seems sadly more appropriate than ever.
In a few days I’ll be arrested. Add me to the 1500 people who already had that pleasure in the last few days of mass pre-emptive arrests. Prisoners are hog-tied and lined up in the street for up to 5 hours, urinating on the themselves and freezing in the sub-zero cold.
Maybe they’ll arrive a miracle agreement in the last few days, maybe the cops will back off and allow some dissent to be heard, maybe hell will freeze over and pigs will fly. I’m still pessimistic, but would LOVE to be wrong.
Despite all this Copenhagen hasn’t been a downer. It’s been an inspiration. Just to see the tremendous number of people who’ve dedicated their lives to this issue, or the nearly hundred thousand who marched 8km in the freezing wind, meet new and old friends, witness the growing movement, the solidarity, visit the free-town of Christiania. These experiences will keep me warm for the year to come.
I just played last night in Zurich (note: late posting), the promoters are a clever bunch who frame their monthly event as a visit to an imaginary nation in Africa called Tam Tam. The public passes through a border, then seek citizenship at a passport office. Their poly-cultural vision flows against the current of at least 60% of their Swiss compatriots, the ones who just voted for a referendum banning the construction of any new minarets in the entire country. A lot of europeans are paranoid about Islam, and rightly so, since their own religion has withered away. Euro churches are full of tourists clicking fotos, not the faithful or the penitent.
Or maybe their fears stem from the fact that Islam is the most recent upgrade of the Sky God Religion from the mideast, version 3.0. Christianity (v2.0) is soooooo last century, a clunky obsolescent OS that people cling to out of nostalgia or loyalty. Even more hidebound are the users of version 1.0, the old skool, with their austere 8-bit hebrew graphics, always battling with users of version 3.0 about who’s OS is “keeping it real”
On the subject of throwing all the 3rd world muslims out of europe….. it just happened to my music partner, Nova. Her Euro (Schengen) visa reached it’s 90-day end. ¡Fuera! back to Indonesia.
It took us four months of constant effort and hundreds of dollars to get her that precious EU visa, she had many a flight or epic train trip to gather the papers: criminal background check, AIDS test, bank account info, medical checkup, job contract, all that supposed to be translated by certified (expensive) translators, notarized, legalized, stamped and sealed by distinct offices scattered across Java.
Our first mistake was to begin with the Spanish embassy, until realizing it’s a nest of corruption. The embassy staff make the process impossible via normal methods, while hustlers directly outside offer guaranteed Spanish tourist visas for $$, obviously splitting the money with the employees on the inside. We succeeded eventually with the German embassy, it’s better to deal with rigorous officials than the corrupt.
It was worth it the effort. Continuing with the nerdspeak, Nova is Filastine 4.0 (mixing, percussion, video, & now voice). She’ll be sorely missed, both musically and personally.
A triptych that shows the development of a live drum piece.1. studio- hallway next to my kitchen, Poble Nou 2. rehearsal- breakwater of Port of Barcelona 3. live- Kafe Antzokia, Bilbao (footage thanks to StereoZona)
versions ENGLISH / ESPAÑOL / FRANÇAIS / BAHASA (please forward, blog, & post)
- – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – -
URGENT CALL FOR SOUND COMPOSITIONS
On a topic even more urgent: Climate Chaos
Deadline: December 13, 2009
Public Performance: December 16, in the streets of Copenhagen during the Climate Summit, broadcast from the Sound Swarm, a of battery of bicycle-mounted megaphones within the Bike Bloc
Compensation: Air that you can breath & weather that doesn’t kill you
From the 7-18th of December the world’s leaders will be in Copenhagen to decide the conditions of this planet’s future. Given the suspects & their financial backing, it’s nearly impossible we’ll be presented with solutions, far more likely we’ll see further privatization, enclosure, and commodification of the our atmosphere under the alias of carbon trading.
This is your chance to put pressure, speak truth to power, or sonically disrupt, at HIGH VOLUME.
Anything on-topic is welcome: remix the speeches of corporate & government leaders, environmental soundscapes, the sounds of nature or it’s undoing, appropriate collages, home-cooked theme songs, subliminal mob-inflaming drones, advertising jingles of the apocalypse
Submission Details:
1. Composition can be of any duration, but there is no guarantee your composition will be broadcast.
2. The loudspeakers do not reproduce frequencies below 500hz. Use a highpass EQ filter. Also, megaphones respond better to longer sounds than short transients. Translation: no bass, no drums.
3. Please submit 5 dual-mono wave files with equal start times. Use the diagram below for conceptualizing space. If you are technically unable to compose and render for 5 channels, submit it anyhow, if it’s good I’ll make the effort to cut it into multi-channel.
4. Send files via an ftp, usendit.com, sendthisfile.com, or a similar service to this email: filastine.soundswarm@gmail.com
5. Name the files like this:
1RR_title
2R_title
3C_title
4L_title
5LL_title
This is how we’ll try to be arranged in the street, the X’s signify non-sound bikes of the bike block.
(imagine Sarkozy, Wen Jiabao, or Obama here in front of us listening attentively.
or maybe just a load of riot police & TV cameras)
X 5LL X X X X X X X X X X X X X X 1RR X
X X X X X X 4L X X X XX X X 4R X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X 3C X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
(+ another ~ 1000 bikes)
Move fast. We are just about out of time.
Get in touch if you will be in Copenhagen and want to build or pilot one of the Sound Swarm bikes: filastine.soundswarm@gmail.com
Dentro de un tópico aún más urgente: Caos Climático
Fecha límite de entrega: 13 de Diciembre, 2009
Performance público: 16 de Diciembre en las calles de Copenhagen durante la Cumbre del Clima, emitido desde el Enjambre de Sonido, empleando megáfonos instalados en bicicletas dentro del contexto del Bike Bloc.
Compensación: El aire que respires y el clima que no mata.
Del 7 al 18 de Diciembre los líderes del mundo se reunirán en Copenhagen para decidir las condiciones futuras del planeta. Considerando las sospechas y su respaldo financiero, es casi imposible que se nos presenten soluciones, lo más probable es que veamos una privatización adicional, cercamiento, y cosificación de nuestra atmósfera bajo el alias del comercio de carbón.
Esta es tu oportunidad de presionar, encarar la verdad al poder o sónicamente irrumpir A GRAN VOLUMEN.
Bienvenido sea cualquier material dentro del tópico: remezclas de discursos de líderes políticos o corporativos, sonido-paisajes ambientales, sonidos de la naturaleza o de su destrucción, collages apropiados, temas cocinados en casa, zumbidos subliminales que inflamen a las muchedumbres, anunciando tintineos del Apocalipsis.
Detalles para la solicitud:
1. Las composiciones pueden tener cualquier duración, pero no hay garantía de que tu pieza sea emitida.
2. Los altavoces no reproducen frecuencias por debajo de 500 Hz. Usar un highpass EQ filtro. También, los megáfonos responden mejor a sonidos más largos que cortos. Traducción: ningún bajo, nada de tambores.
3. Os rogamos presentar 5 archivos de onda mono-duales con tiempos de inicio iguales. Emplead el diagrama de abajo para conceptualizar el espacio. Si eres técnicamente incapaz de componer y renderizar para 5 canales, preséntalo igualmente, si esta bien haré el esfuerzo para cortarlo en varios canales yo mismo.
4. Enviad los archivos via ftp, usendit.com, sendthisfile.com, o un servicio similar a este email: filastine.soundswarm@gmail.com
5. Nombrad los archivos de la siguiente manera:
1RR_titulo
2R_titulo
3C_titulo
4L_titulo
5LL_titulo
Así es como intentaremos arreglarlo en la calle, la X significa las bicicletas sin sonido dentro del bloque de bicicletas.
( Imaginad a Sarkozy, Wen Jiabao u Obama frente a nosotros escuchando aténtamente o quizás ante
una carga de policía antidisturbios y cámaras de TV )
X 5LL X X X X X X X X X X X X X X 1RR X
X X X X X X 4L X X X XX X X 4R X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X 3C X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
(+ otras ~ 1000 bicicletas)
Moveos rápido. Estamos casi fuera de tiempo.
Contactad si váis a estar en Copenhagen y queréis construir o pilotar una de las bicicletas en la Cumbre del Clima: filastine.soundswarm@gmail.com
Sur un sujet encore plus urgent: LE CHAOS CLIMATIQUE
Date limite: 13 décembre 2009 Performance publique: 16 décembre, dans les rues de Copenhagen pendant le Sommet Climatique, retransmis depuis le Sound Swarm, une batterie de vélos armés de mégaphones au sein du a Bike Bloc Compensation: De l’air à respirer et du temps qui ne tue pas Dirigé par:Filastine
Du 7 au 18 décembre les dirigeants mondiaux seront à Copenhagen pour décider des conditions du futur de cette planète. Au vu des suspects et de leur appui financier, il est pratiquement impossible qu’on se verra proposer des solutions, de facon plus probable on assistera a encore plus de privatisation, plus de clôtures, et une commodification de notre amosphere sous couvert de l’alias “marché carbone”
C’est votre chance de faire pression, de dire la vérité au pouvoir, ou d’interférer, HAUT ET FORT.
Tout ce qui touche au sujet est bien venu: remix des discours de dirigeants politiques et industriels, paysages sonores environnementaux, le son de la nature ou de sa disparition, collages appropriés, chansons thématiques cuisinées à la maison, bourdonnements galvanisants subliminaux, jingles de pub de l’apocalypse..
Détails pour la soumission: 1. Les compostions peuvent etre de n’importe quelle durée, mais il n’y a aucune garantie que votre composition soit retransmise 2. Les hauts parleurs ne reproduisent pas les fréquences en dessous de 500hz. Utilisez des filtres passants EQ. Aussi, les mégaphones répondent mieux au sons plus longs qu’aux passages courts. Traduction: pas de basses, pas de batteries. 3. Merci de soumettre 5 fichiers wav dual-mono avec des temps de démarrage égaux. Utiliser le diagramme plus bas pour conceptualiser l’espace. Si vous etes dans l’incapacité technique de composer et de restituer 5 canaux, soumettez quand même, si c’est bon je ferai l’effort de le couper en multicanaux. 4. Envoyer les fichiers via un serveur ftp, usendit.com, sendthisfile.com, ou similaire à cet email: filastine.soundswarm@gmail.com 5. Nommer les fichiers comme suit:
1RR_titre
2R_titre
3C_titre
4L_titre
5LL_titre
Voici comment nous essaierons de nous organiser dans la rue, les X représentent des vélos non-amplifiés.
(imaginez ici Sarkozy, Wen Jiabao, ou Obama, en face de nous à écouter attentivement,
ou peut-être juste des policiers anti-émeute et des caméras de tv)
X 5LL X X X X X X X X X X X X X X 1RR X
X X X X X X 4L X X X XX X X 4R X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X 3C X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
(+ encore ~ 1000 vélos)
Bougez vite. on n’a presque plus de temps
Si vous etes à Copenhagen et que vous voulez construire ou piloter un vélo du Sound Swarm, contactez: filastine.soundswarm@gmail.com
Pertunjukan Publik: 16 Desember, di beberapa jalan di Kopenhagen menjelang the Climate Summit, dipancarkan dari the Sound Swarm, megafon yang dipasang pada sepeda dianatara rangkaian the Bike Bloc
Kompensasi: Udara yang kamu hirup dan cuaca yang tidak akan membunuhmu
Mulai tanggal 7-18 Desember, para pemimpin dunia akan berada di Kopenhagen sebagai penentu kondisi masa depan planet ini. Atas dasar prasangka dan kondisi finansial mereka, penemuan solusi adalah hal yang hampir tidak mungkin, lebih banyak privatisasi, pengurungan dan komodifikasi atmosfer kita atau dengan kata lain pertukaran karbon.
Ini kesempatanmu untuk memberikan tekanan, berbicara kenyataan pada kekuasaan, atau secara sonik menciptakan gangguan pada VOLUME TINGGI.
Apapun yang se-topik akan diterima: remix dari pidato para pemimpin korporasi dan pemerintah, soundscape yang berkenaan dengan lingkungan, suara alam dan perusakannya, kolase yang cocok, lagu tema buatan sendiri, dengung/suara menyebalkan yang sangat menggangu, jingle iklan kehancuran dunia
Detail Pengumpulan:
1. Komposisi berdurasi terserah, tidak dijamin komposisimu akan dipancarkan.
2. Pengeras suara tidak menghasilkan frekuensi di bawah 500hz. Gunakan highpass EQ filter. Juga, megafon merespon lebih baik pada suara yang lebih panjang daripada transien yang pendek. Translasi: tanpa bass, tanpa drum.
3. Dimohon mengumpulkan 5 dual-mono wave files dengan awal yang sama. Gunakanlah diagram dibawah ini untuk mengkonsep ruangan. Jika kamu secara teknis kurang bisa mengkomposisi atau merender 5 channel, kumpulkan saja, jika bagus saya akan berusaha menjadikannya multi-channel.
Last night we played at El Tren, an enormous club in Granada. It’s about time I added another story to the How I Made a Dirty Bomb page.
On the guest list was the extended family of La Perla. She’s the vocalist featured on Como Fugitivos, the last track on Dirty Bomb. She’s a gypsy, which is a dubious word, but in spanish (gitana) it doesn’t have a pejorative meaning. Imagine her mom, uncles, aunts, and cousins, all in their white track suits and gold jewelry, hanging out in a club full of drugged spanish gadjos. It’s the kind of place they would never normally go, hearing a kind of music (electronic) they didn’t even know they would dislike because they’d never heard, nor even imagined, it before. Props to them for coming to place so foreign to their tastes, and putting up with the volume, the zombies, and all the other things that make nightclubs so charming.
The bridge between these worlds, and between me and this young gitana, is Carolina. She serves drinks at Eshavira, a tiny bar tucked away on a dead-end alleyway in the the Albayzín district of Granada. It’s a good place to see the roughest kind of flamenco, drunken gitanos with patent-leather shoes and barely-buttoned shirts do battle with guitars and voices ruined by smoke and drink, as people shout along & clap. It’s a miracle that a place like this has survived until the year 2009, whether by luck, accident, or the decelerated pace of change in Andalucia.
To enrich the plot, Carolina lives in a squatted cave, it’s well-tended, more like a hobbit hole in the side of a grassy hill directly overlooking the muslim palace of Alhambra. The first time I arrived here was a few years ago, after deejaying until dawn, we arrived to make a breakfast. It was a beautiful spring morning, the hill blanketed by delicate red flowers covered in dew drops, the birds chirping, the neighbor’s roosters announcing the day. My flight to Barcelona departed later that same day after a short nap, and there wasn’t a moment of doubt that I’d return here.
Semana Santa of 2008 I came back and stayed for a week in the cave, working on beatless track that I wanted to feature a flamenco vocal contribution. The woman who cleans the bar Eshavira (where Carolina bartends) has a 16 year old daughter, La Perla, known for her voice. The family lives in a zone of monotonous tower blocks on the periphery of Granada.
I set up the adhoc studio in the cave, my fancy microphone duct-taped to a broomstick. La Perla came with another 16yr old gitana. With the two girls, Carolina, myself and Manuel, we were five in that humid little cave. There was no possibility of going outside due to a massive thunderstorm dumping continuous rain for the duration of the session. We tried many different ideas but eventually settled on adapting some of the lyrics of a famous song from a film set in a notorious barrio of Barcelona in the 80′s.
The original lyrics told the story of a specific outlaw, but we changed the verbs to command form. Instead of telling the story of a criminal, the lyrics give the order to rob and live outside the law. For this I had to make a convincing argument to La Perla, explaining capitalist enclosure, privatization and control, and how one of the few forms of resistance available to us is economic sabotage, aka stealing.
Later we returned the girls to their barrio, since this was Semana Santa we had to push our way through some twenty thousand KKK-dressed catholics. They meandered around the city from one holy site to another, bearing garish christian torture scenes. Each parade had a number of smartly uniformed marching bands belting out death waltzes at a slow goose-step.
Como Fugitivos was later tarted up with bowed upright bass by Jherek Bischoff of The Dead Science. And of course a billion hours of editing on my part. One technique I used a lot was to take the final note of each vocal phrase, put that slice into a sampler and extend the tail of a phrase, manipulating it’s loop fades, pitch and duration to make harmonic drones.
Last weekend I stumbled, hacked, and vomited my way from Bilbao to Slovenia, backtracking to Turin, up to Frankfurt, finally arriving in Salzburg. A big scribble the width of europe with fever-stolen memories.
Basta with the shopping carts, it’s time to change my m.o. and travel with a hospital gurney.
Assuming I kill this flu and not the reverse, I’ll be joining the peoples behind this video to make an interventionist bike gang at the Climate Summit in Copenhagen (December 8-16).
My grain of salt will be to mount loudspeakers on a number of bikes, and compose an 8 channel sound piece. Each bikes loudspeaker fed by an mp3 source, with a synchronized start time. As an example how it will work, one sound might chase, jump from one bike to another, then emit from a fraction of the bikes, then all of them, then shift & mutate. The sound fodder will be cutup dialogue collages on the subject, melting glaciers pitched-up to piercing frequencies, alarms, the tranquil animal sounds of species soon to be extinct, and, of course, hellish end of the world four horsemen of the apocalypse styled noise.
The last week I’ve lived in blurry distorted reality, alternating between sweats and chills, and coughing until my brain runs out of oxygen and forces the body to collapse. I thought it was a malaria relapse, but it’s more likely swine flu, or some other super-virus, because malaria doesn’t coat your lungs with green sticky rubber.
I had big plans to intervene in the Climate Summit talks in Barcelona. It’s the last place the big shots are meeting, right here right now in Barcelona, the final round of discussions before Copenhagen.
I did manage to crawl out to one action last night, where we disrupted the posh dinner of the hydroelectric dam lobby. They were treating various world gov’t officials to some fine fish and peddling their influence at the same time. Maybe they ate salmon, farmed salmon, since it’s nearly impossible to get wild salmon in europe, now that the rivers have long been modified to suit only mankind and no longer have healthy fish stocks.
We made noise, blocked the entrance, etc.. of course the police eventually arrived but the job was already done so we packed up and left. But now I’m thinking that I didn’t go nearly far enough, that I’ve got a special gift to deliver.
I should find out who the real assholes are at this summit, disguise myself as a courier, enter and elevator with them, and start coughing. My super-flu would take them out of the negotiations for a a few weeks. I could change the course of the Copenhagen Summit and save the fucking world, five well placed coughs could prevent total ecological collapse!
Here is a bit of press in Kenya about some of our antics here, it’s mentioned in local and UK media of course, but somehow it’s more exciting to think about Kenyans reading about our humble efforts while drinking their morning coffee.
In Rotterdam we played at Poortgebouw, a monumental building that’s been squatted since the 80′s, they have a legal contract that cedes use of the space to the squatters in perpetuity.
Back when it was initially squatted it was located in an semi-abandoned port district, now it’s surrounded by glass skyscrapers in one of those typical upscale port conversions (docklands, port vell bcn, etc).
Developers have a schemes for the Poortgebouw building now, and won’t leave the residents in peace. Just as a wilderness is bulldozed into a monoculture, complex urban landscapes disappear under the same tools, and with the same ultimate motive, to convert the “useless” into the profitable.
The following night in Amsterdam played at an another ex-squat, OT301, this one with a more secure future since the occupants have bought the building. Ironically it was part of the Amsterdam Dance Event, a festival of club music. On a bike ride we bumped into the festival headquarters, a building vibrating to the oppressive metronome of house music. A security guard ordered me to step away from the door.
Next day on the train towards France I get the usual warm welcome, thugs with guns (and badges) search our bags looking for drugs.
Then the town of Thionville. These smaller town gigs are nearly always fun, low stress, and feels good to play to the uninitiated. The gig was in the city hall building, with massive chandeliers hanging from the ceiling and the crests & seals of officialdom about.
Yes it’s strange to play at squats for two nights, then get profiled by the police on our way to play a state-subsidized event at the local city hall.
The next day had a 30 minute stopover in Marseille to change trains. The station was chock full of nervous riot cops, do they follow me? Outside it was a calm sunny sunday afternoon, we sat on the steps overlooking the city where I always sit while killing time in Marseille.
Suddenly the sound of explosions and yelling, then a mob bursts out of the tiny side streets. All young men, all in hoodies, most carrying flares or big sticks, in full riot mode. They attacked the train station with the same sense of purpose that a mountaineer takes on a peak… because it’s there. Bottles and flares were landing around us, smoke wafting into the station, we had to run to catch our train and never did get any explanation. Viva la france!
Twenty minutes later we arrived in Cassis, possibly one of the world’s most beautiful places, living like a billionaire in an apartment overlooking the sea, spent the day hiking, swimming in turquoise coves, eating fine food.
If you value breathing than you probably already know about the Climate Summit this december in Copenhagen. This is where and when the big decisions will be made.
Air is the ultimate and final commons, we’ve already seen the enclosure and privatization the plant world, the seas, human genetics. Now we’ll have speculative markets in carbon trading. If there was every something worth fighting for it’s a breath of clean air. Some peeps are planning on storming the summit.
For those other Barceloneses who are, like me, so naive to think that banging on some drums might actually have some social use, you hook up with the Timbalada as part of the global day of action October 24.
On the personal end of things, know anyone with a space in Copenhagen? These friends just got their space yanked away by the Copenhagen Contemporary Art Center who got cold feet…. apparently their definition of art is restricted to that which does not threaten their funding.
The project Putting the fun between your legs: The Bike Bloc, is a collaboration between The Laboratory of Insurrectionary Imagination and the UK Climate Camp (www.climatecamp.org.uk). The idea is to design and build a new tool of creative resistance for the RECLAIM POWER mobilisations taking place in Copenhagen on the 16th of December 16th, a day of civil disobedience supported by over 200 organisations many from the global south.( www.climate-justice-action.org ). Made from hundreds of recycled bikes, The Bike Bloc will merge device of mass transportation and pedal powered resistance machine, postcapitalist bike gang and art bike carnival.
Bike hackers, artists, welders, climate campers and engineers will be working together to design and build The Bike Bloc across two cities: Bristol (Arnolfini Gallery 15th – 30th Nov, – as part of C-words exhibition - www.arnolfini.org.uk and somewhere in Copenhagen (4th- 18th Dec.) The trouble is we no longer have a space or support resources in Copenhagen, which with only 8 weeks to go puts us under immense pressure.
If you have any idea of places, organisations, or, of collectives that would be interested in hosting this project, and are prepared to walk the talk, or would like to be involved please contact us as soon as possible.
As I child I was convinced that I would die in a nuclear holocaust, there was films like Red Dawn, and TV specials like The Day After to fuel my imagination. And even a little kid could figure out that Reagan was the type of asshole who would destroy planet earth in order to win against the evil empire. Yes, he really called the Soviet Union the “evil empire”, and often. I was raised to believe that there was evil in the world, and it was the USSR.
Ironic that when I finally arrive nobody seems to give a shit about communism. It’s basically a conversation killer. But I can’t stop thinking about what happened here, and can’t shake this profound sadness that they gained nothing from the experience, that humanity gained nothing from it, and that this country is now, at least economically, a shameless caricature of it’s historic enemy.
It’s such a politically difficult place, as any critique of capitalism comes off as a likely endorsement of socialism, and the failed utopian experiment that was communism. The big question, the elephant of a question is this: is it possible to create a cooperative society under different (better) circumstances? If the Soviet Union hadn’t been run by tyrants, and hadn’t existed in a continuous state of war crisis, could it have flourished and provided a better quality of life for it’s people?
In Petersburg I was hosted in a classic old flat, it’s cavernous interiors wallpapered with faded sepia fleur-de-lis and heavy wooden furniture. It’s the kind of furnishings that are passed down through generations as inheritance. Sad that we now live surrounded by flimsy particle-board kits shat out from china, assembled by hex-wrench, then later tossed onto the sidewalk when you change apartments.
The concert was a festival held in a Soviet cinema hall. It’s also palacial proportions common to that time when cinema was considered a keystone of culture, a right of the citizens to see film in relative luxury. It’s now disused, I assume the punters are all at the new multiplex watching dubbed versions of the latest hollywood output. Let freedom ring!
It’s not as if everything has been privatized and turned into a McDonalds. The Hermitage for instance, with it’s little collection of 3 million pieces of art, is still keeping it real. And just about every corner has some monument or another, a bronze poet here, a granite tsarina there, an onion-domed fantasy church (see foto) around every other corner. The city center is too old and beautiful to molt for every passing economic fad.
The periphery of Moscow, in contrast, confirms every cliché of modern Russia. Luxury towers with whimsical shapes, common to places like Singapore or Dubai, sprout incongruently from neighborhoods identical to a blighted Paris banlieue. Black SUV’s and benz’s with tinted windows vie for roadspace with battered soviet-era mass transit.
The newest Moscow airport is actually a giant shopping mall, it’s honestly difficult to find the flight gates, hidden coyly behind shops that hawk gold watches or consumer electronics, fast food or sporting goods. At 4am on a sunday morning it was mobbed with consumers. MOBBED! I felt like a wretched hobo, humbly dragging my belongings through the maze, assaulted by the stink of luxury perfumes and the racket of cash registers.
For all my sadness and critique I love this place. The people are smart, skeptical, and brutally honest. And also because it’s exciting and dynamic. Seventy years ago they went from serfdom & tsars to an (allegedly) classless worker-run society, then twenty years ago from a tyranny of bureaucrats to a mafia state. Who knows what the fuck is going to happen next? In the meantime there are dystopian hyper-capitalist megacities of the future, only a short flight away from cozy old europe.
Athens again. I had every intention of spending some time in the countryside but got sucked in by this gravitational mass. A few blocks from Omonia square is a ghetto of dense high-rises, their once white facades now streaked with the patterns of pollution dust sculpted by rain. Here are stacked arab, african, and pakistani immigrants, all men, who live in converted office spaces or pay-by-week hotels. The last time I was in the barrio I stayed in narrow tower full of Somalis, the guy I befriended was waiting for his (false) EU papers to get sorted out, meanwhile trying to survive by any means possible.
I’ve got a story to tell about this last trip to Athens, the story starts in that hotel and later involves (witnessing other people) burning banks and storming the US embassy. I’ve got to wait until whatever EU statute of limitations expires, or it becomes irrelevant history, whichever comes first.
Foto from the train Thessaloniki-Athens. They have modern trains, I just took the most difficult and senseless route so I could end up on trains like this, with windows that open, and everything trimmed in sheet metal. Sheet metal will come to be considered a lost craft, like blacksmithing, as everything on earth is built by injection-molded plastic.
Update: posting this from Riga, Latvia. Here for a night due to a problem with my Russian visa, I can’t continue to Leningrad until September 23. Beautiful angular light here, the kind you find only in the higher latitudes. There are worse places to be in purgatory.
Visa problems have been a theme lately, or it’s just the inevitable consequence of dealing with some many nations frontiers. The word “erasmus” has also been a theme, but there is no excuse for that.